Apartheid: Legacy and Lessons

That apartheid museum was heavy. I didn't make it past the first 5 minutes of the tour without crying. I entered the building through a door that said: "Non-whites Only." After watching my white colleagues enter through the White-only door, I was overcome by a sense of grief, as though this museum had singlehandedly taken something away from me that, until then, I did not know exsisted. The feeling was indescribable.

It is amazing how similar Jim Crow (American apartheid) and South African apartheid really are. The biggest difference is that whites were the minority in South Africa, which maybe was a blessing and a curse for non-white South Africans. The fact that they outnumbered whites made them even more threatening to the Establishment, and perhaps caused the apartheid government to be even more heavy-handed in their repression of non-whites. On the other hand, it didn't take several generations after the fall of apartheid to have a non-white president of South Africa. (But I wonder whether there will ever again be a white president, or a president of Indian or Chinese descent? If not, what does that tell us about South Africa and her quest for equality?)

Another recurring theme I have encountered in South Africa is the willingness of South Africans to reckon with their past. It is not something you see in the United States, and I believe it has everything to do with the fact that white are the minority, so they cannot simply withdraw and hide themselves from discussions of race. They cannot be oblivious to issues of race; this is a luxury afforded mostly to white Americans, some of whom have adopted a hysterical colorblindess in order to avoid such discussions. This inability to avoid rekoning with racism (instead of having a moment of "oh, that's terrible" then going on with life) makes me hopeful that, unlike the United States, South Africa will be quickly on its way to reconciliation and to honest engagement between all South Africans.

On the other hand, maybe having a black President will help us do the same in the States. I think issues of race will be raised within the American dialogue much more often. Even hearing the vitriol expoused by the rabidly racist fringe can be part of the medicine this country needs to cure the disease that has plagued it since the first African slave stepped foot on American soil.

Back to the Apartheid Museum, I have some photos (which, I found out, we were strictly prohibited from taking). I didn't take many pictures because there is no way photos taken with my crappy camera could do everything I saw and experienced any measure of justice. But here are some pics:

The South African Constitution contains a Bill of Rights that consists of some 37 rights. Although there are "only" 37 rights, most rights are "read in" to the very broad right to human dignity. I like it . . .


Nelson Mandela's given name was Rolihlala, which means "to pull a branch of a tree," or, more colloquially, "troublemaker" in his native tongue, Thembu. His English name, Nelson, was given to him by his teacher at primary school so that he could better assimilate. I think his people knew what they were doing when they named him Rolihlala.